This was at the top of Matthew's to-do list, and after a stressful first week at the hospital I thought - let's not delay - schedule the lesson. We went contacted Uncle Bryan's Surf Academy for lessons (thanks for the suggestion Sonya!). They were very professional, emphasized safety above all else, and gave really thorough instruction before we even got in the water. As beginners we started on a 12' board (the longer the board the easier to stand up). Our lesson was at Hale'iwa Beach, on O'ahu's north shore.
I have to say, I was terrified of this whole idea. I don't consider myself a particularly strong swimmer, and we were venturing to surf in Hawaii, at the season of peak waves... I was doing this for Matthew and figured I could back out at any time, nothing lost. But it was so easy. Not that much swimming involved - just paddling out on your board. More than anything else it is about balance and centering your weight on the board. I really had alot of fun! Matthew had a great time too. He took a little longer to get the hang of it, but by the end of the lesson he was doing better than me. Whereas at the end of my lesson I was getting so tired I was doing worse.
So a warning to beginners: it is a rough sport in ways you don't realize. Your arms are like noodles after paddling out so much - I felt completely worthless. I was amazed getting out of the water that my toes were torn up and blistered - you use your toes to jump when getting up on the board. And the next day we were both shocked at the places we were sore: bruised at our ribs and knees from sitting up on the board, our lower back and shoulder muscles aching. And I was so completely exhausted getting out of the water... I felt pretty beat up and kinda loopy.
Other fun details:
- A pair of sea turtles were in the water with us during the lesson. Huge turtles, lazing about, playing in the waves, close enough to touch.
- Our instructor was a Southerner, from Florida, but he has family in Louisiana and cheers for LSU! Matthew says this is insignificant, I thought it was a really good sign.
Check out the photos below. There is a photographer that goes out and shoots lessons for beginners, and you have the option to buy a CD of you on the water (which we obviously did).
I like this photo - Matthew and I resting from paddling the channel. That is our instructor, doing some fancy tricks on the wave.
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